Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, sits on the banks of the Tonle Sap river, at the confluence of two other rivers, the Bassac and the mighty Mekong, and it holds an undeniable charm despite its recent tumultuous and violent past. In the early 1900’s, the height of French colonialism, Phnom Penh was known as ‘The Paris of the East’, and colonial style villas set along tree-lined boulevards still remain - however they are slowly being consumed by development and replaced by modern glass and concrete structures. In 1975 Phnom Penh suffered a forced evacuation by the Khmer Rouge and became a ghost town for five years, followed by many years of international isolation. Today the city has revived and is fast sharpening its contemporary cosmopolitan edge. Chic new hotels and restaurants, shops and bars are springing up all over the city, plus the emerging art scene is attracting international acclaim. Visits to the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and National Museum are a must, as is a late afternoon stroll along Sisowath Quay, alive with exciting riverside life - the restaurants and bars along here being ideal spots for a relaxing drink whilst enjoying the beautiful light shows caused by the setting sun. Phnom Penh is also home to many impressive wats or pagodas such as Wat Phnom, Wat Ounalom, and Wat Langka, and browsing the many local markets such as the Central Market (Phsar Thmei), and the Russian Market (Phsar Toul Tom Poung), interacting with the Cambodian people, are great experiences, as is experiencing your Phnom Penh city tour by cyclo.

Of course, you cannot talk about Phnom Penh without mentioning its more recent harrowing history at the hands of the infamous Khmer Rouge, and the sites of the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (also known as S21), and the 'Killing Fields' of Cheoung Ek. Although visiting these sites can be emotionally straining it allows an insight of what the Cambodian people have endured, and an understanding of today’s Khmer society.

Phnom Penh is a charming city to explore yet far too many people rush through it in a day or two at the most. With its elegant colonial architecture, alfresco lifestyle and laid-back locals it retains an irresistibly provincial charm, so base yourself in Phnom Penh for a few days more, not only visiting many of the new shopping and eating outlets (many offering employment to the less privileged), but also taking day trips to surrounding attractions such as: the hill top temple of Oudong - a former capital; a Mekong river cruise to Koh Dach ‘silk weaving island’; or the small, yet beautiful ancient temple at Tonle Bati, to name but just a few...

For our suggested Phnom Penh tours please click here.

The Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda sit side by side on the riverside, and while they are two separate complexes they are visited as one, starting with the Royal Palace and then continuing onto the Silver Pagoda. Approaching the complex you will notice the walls painted vivid yellow to represent Buddhism, and white for Hinduism, the two main faiths of Cambodia until they were combined into one by Jayavarman VII in the 12th century. At this point the dominating feature is the golden spired Chanchhaya Pavilion, used as a venue for Royal Dancers, as a tribune for the King to address the crowds, and as a place to hold state and Royal banquets. Once inside the Palace grounds, street sounds are silenced by the high walls and the various Royal buildings sit like ornate islands rising from the tranquil, manicured tropical gardens. Except for the area of the actual Royal residence, the Khemarin Palace (if the blue royal flag is flying the King is in residence), most of the Palace grounds and Silver Pagoda are open to the public. Surrounded by asian grandeur you cannot fail to notice the strangely out of place, grey, mostly cast-iron, colonial building – this was a present from Napoleon III in 1876.

The Silver Pagoda's proper name is Wat Preah Keo Morokat, which means 'The Temple of the Emerald Buddha,' but it has received the common moniker 'Silver Pagoda' after the 4000+ solid silver tiles that make up its floor. The walls of the pagoda are lavishly decorated with colourful frescos depicting episodes from the Khmer version of the Ramayana. The focal point of the pagoda is the large jade Buddha statue – the Emerald Buddha. Standing in front of the Emerald Buddha is another taller, solid-gold Buddha weighing 90 kilograms and encrusted with over 2,000 diamonds. The pagoda compound as a whole contains several structures and gardens, including a library, various stupas, shrines, monuments, and minor buildings, as well as the equestrian statue of King Norodom which was set in place in 1892. Also worth looking at are the complex walls with their lavishly decorated frescos depicting episodes from the Khmer version of the Ramayana.

The distinctive terracotta red National Museum is located next to the Royal Palace and it was dedicated by King Sisowath in 1920. Over 5,000 objects are on display including Angkorian era statues, lingas, and other artifacts, most notably the legendary statue of the ‘Leper King’ (a replica sits in the original spot on the ‘Terrace of the Leper King' at Angkor Wat. Though the emphasis is on Angkorian artifacts, there are also examples from the pre-Angkorian Funan period (4th-9th centuries), and a good collection of pieces from later periods, including a special exhibition of post-Angkorian Buddha figures. Visiting the museum you will not only be enthralled with ancient artifacts but also more recent works of craftsmanship. Walking behind the main building you will be impressed with students of the University of Fine Arts who are practicing all forms of art, pursuing the heritage of their forefathers. Also of interest is Street 178, aka ‘Artists Street’, which borders the museum and is lined with several art galleries and souvenir shops. The Reyum Gallery is of particular note, exhibiting the works of contemporary Cambodian artists.

A small hill, or phnom, crowned by a wat (temple) marks the legendary founding place of Phnom Penh and gives the city its name. The hill is the site of constant activity, with a steady stream of the faithful climbing to the wat, shrines and fortune tellers at the top. Legend has it that in 1372 a rich Khmer woman, Lady Penh, was strolling along the river bank when she noticed a koki tree floating by, which she fished from the waters. Inside the tree she found four Buddha statues and took them to the hill and built a small temple to house them. Later the surrounding area became known after the hill (Phnom) and its creator (Lady Penh), hence ‘Phnom Penh’. As you are exploring the wat look out the alter dedicated to Lady Penh and her smiling statue, it is said she is of particular help to fellow women. Today the well-shaded hill sits at the centre of a roundabout and has a bit of a fun atmosphere to it, with a giant clock built into the hillside, a small exhibition hall which often has interesting displays, numerous hawkers ambling around, and even elephant rides available. As you wander around see if you can spot the life size Koprey sculpture, Cambodia’s national animal, now thought to be extinct, and if you have the time the nearby Cambodia Handicraft Association’s boutique has a good range of local crafts for sale which have been produced by various local village co-operatives.

The unique, stunning ochre-coloured, art-deco Central Market is definitely a Phnom Penh landmark. Constructed in the 1930s the large domed building with its four wings is an amazingly cool place to seek refuge in the middle of the day, and is also a fascinating market to wander through. The area directly under the huge dome is given over to gold and watch merchants, while the wings are dedicated to electrical goods, household appliances, women’s clothing, and men’s clothing. Surrounding the market walls is a ramshackle, sprawling market area with tarpaulin sheets making a low roof. This area is also well worth exploring, however it is not as cool. Here you will find shoe stalls, a meat and fish market, various insect type snacks, an ample supply of flowers, as well as souvenir merchants hawking everything from t-shirts and postcards to silver curios and karmas. The market is known as ‘Phsar Thmei’ in Khmer which actually means ‘New Market’, however due to its location the English ‘Central Market’ has caught on.

A stroll or cyclo ride along the 3km riverfront, or Sisowath Quay, is a must. The wide expanse of water caused by the confluence or three rivers marking a large ‘x’, the Tonle Sap, the Mekong, and the Bassac, coupled with the wide walk way and gardens, and the gentle breeze almost makes for a seaside atmosphere. During the day the promenade is relatively deserted, an oasis of tranquility, with just the long line of fluttering flags (one for each nation with an Embassy in Cambodia) to keep you company, as well as the occasional child wanting to sell you a book. Strolling along the riverside you are never far from some of Phnom Penh’s more important sights such as the Royal Palace and Cambodia’s most important pagoda, Wat Ounalom, home to the Kingdom’s top monk, it also claims to house an actual hair from Buddha’s eyebrow! You will also notice a couple of shrines along the promenade where people sell offerings for the gods, live birds in cages that can be released for good luck and coconuts crowned with betel leaves, lotus buds and incense. However come late afternoon, early evening and the locals come out in abundance and the place takes on a carnival-like atmosphere. Families stroll around with balloon waving children in tow, young teenagers shyly flirt with each other, others play badminton, and groups of young men play the ever popular ‘keepie-up shuttlecock’ game. Food and drink vendors do a roaring trade in everything from coca-cola and sugar cane juice to pomelos and roasted sparrows! The riverside is lined with bars and restaurants where you can enjoy some of the finest foods on offer, from Mexican to authentic Khmer cuisine to pizza, and enjoy a cocktail as you watch the fascinating parade of everyday life. At its southern limit you will find what resembles an amusement park. Here you will discover all your fair favorites, from dodgem cars to a Ferris wheel, pink candy floss and more. Finally, for the early risers, not only will you experience a sublime sunrise, but you may get to join in with some locals practicing tai-chi…

Situated on a large roundabout at the junction of two of Phnom Penh’s main streets, Norodom Boulevard and Sihanouk Boulevard, the Independence Monument dominates the skyline. The large reddish-brown tower structure (based upon the design of the towers of Angkor Wat), was built in 1958 to celebrate Cambodia’s independence from French colonial rule, and also as a memorial to those who have lost their lives defending the country. The monument is the site of celebrations and services on important public holidays such as Independence Day and Constitution Day. To the east of the Monument towards the river is one of Phnom Penh’s most popular public parks, with its fountains this is a favorite spot for wedding photos, almost daily there are wedding groups, sometimes queuing up, to have their memorable day photos taken. The park is a hive of activity come late afternoon, early evening as families come to spend quality time together, and at certain times of the year the sky is dancing with many colourful kites.

Phsar Toul Tom Poung has become known amongst foreigners as the ‘Russian Market’, there are two stories behind this name, both centered around Cambodia’s international isolation during the 1980s. The first says that during this time, when the communist Vietnamese where occupying Cambodia, fellow communists Russia were one of the few countries that supplied imports and many of those Russian imports where sold from this market. The other story is centered around the influx of Russians into Cambodia during this same period that were helping with the country’s redevelopment, it is said that as the streets of Phnom Penh were not so safe during this time, once a week many Russians who were housed in the large Russian Embassy compound were bused to this market to do their weekly shopping – the truth is undoubtedly a mixture of the two. During the 1990s the market was famed for selling extremely cheap marijuana by the sack ful! Those days have long gone and today the market is a hive of activity and an excellent place for picking up souvenirs. The market certainly isn’t in the same league as the Central Market architecturally, but surely supersedes it in terms of souvenir stalking and bargain hunting. There are stalls selling some very good Khmer antique reproductions, other stalls piled ceiling high with wonderful colourful silks, incredibly cheap clothing stalls, and of course those stalls selling pirated CDs, DVDs, and computer software – bargaining is expected. As well as the tourist orientated stalls there are also day-to-day sections selling fruit and vegetables, a meat and fish market, as well as a range of stalls selling spare parts for the many motorbikes you see zipping around. It's best visited in the early morning or mid-afternoon as the heat during the middle of the day under the tin roof is oppressive. After spending a couple of hours haggling you may be in need of liquid refreshments and a quick snack. Located close to the Russian Market are two very good cafés which you may want to try – Jars of Clay, and Café Yejj, both of which are training facilities for under privileged young adults.

S21 or Toul Sleng was the Khmer Rouge's primary interrogation and extermination centre, and whilst a visit makes for a rather grim couple of hours it is an integral part of trying to gain an insight of what many of the Khmer people in Cambodia endured during the despotic Pol Pot years. Prior to the Khmer Rouge taking over Cambodia in 1975 Toul Sleng was a high school, however the paranoid Pol Pot soon had it transformed into the regime’s most important interrogation centre. All of the classrooms were converted either to tiny prison cells or larger interrogation centres and the upper balconies were covered in barbed wire so that prisoners could not commit suicide by throwing themselves off. The Khmer Rouge were meticulous in their record keeping, taking photos of every new arrival and painstakingly retaining detailed confessions made by prisoners. Many of these haunting photos are displayed in the museum. In less than 4 cruel years over 17,000 people were ‘processed’ in S21 with only 7 surviving. After the Vietnamese invaded in 1979 and the Khmer Rouge fled to the jungles, the liberators left S21 largely as they found it as a means to justify their actions. Today the complex serves as a museum, a memorial, and a testament to the savage brutality of the Khmer Rouge regime - Toul Sleng is one of the most important historical monuments of the Khmer Rouge period.

Choeung Ek is Cambodia’s best known ‘Killing Field’, although many visitors do not realise that this was just one of the many that can be found scattered across the country. During the short reign of the Khmer Rouge, it is believed in excess of 2 million Cambodians perished, some killed outright, others dying from disease, malnutrition, neglect and mistreatment - many of the dead ended up being unceremoniously dumped in these shallow ‘killing fields’. For the sake of historical context, and although it continues the emotional experience, a visit to Choeung Ek should be combined with a visit to Toul Sleng. Choeung Ek is located 15km south west of Phnom Penh and thousands of Toul Sleng prisoners, including women, children, and babies were forcibly marched here and executed - some shot, many simply bludgeoned to death. Today the site is a group of mass graves and home to a memorial stupa containing thousands of skulls. As you wander around the beautiful and tranquil setting it is difficult to image and comprehend the savagery that took place here...

Tonle Bati is a scenic lake 35km south of Phnom Penh and is a pleasant spot for a picnic, the breezy waterfront has a number of bamboo shacks clinging to it with hammocks strung up making for a great place to relax. However, the highlight of Tonle Bati is the small yet picturesque Angkorian temple of Ta Prohm. Ta Prohm was built during the 12 century by the prolific temple builder Jayavarman VII, and is similar in design to Angkor Wat, only much smaller. It is thought that via a network of waterways Ta Prohm was an important trading port linking the Angkor temples of Siem Reap in the north to the southern Angkorian / Funan sea ports in what is now Vietnam. Once you enter the outer enclosure you are treated to shady colonnades and many large trees and colourful tropical shrubs, making for excellent photo opportunities. Fertility was, and still is, the temple’s main focus, and a statue of the Hindu fertility goddess Preah Noreay is still popular with childless women who come to offer gifts to her headless torso. Whether wanting children of not, exploring Ta Prohm and having a picnic at Tonle Bati is a great way to escape the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh and relax...

The abandoned royal city of Phnom Oudong makes for an interesting half day excursion from Phnom Penh, being about 40km north. Oudong was the capital of Cambodia from the early 17th century until 1866 when the capital was moved to Phnom Penh. However, Oudong still holds great significance as the 3 hills are home to various stupas containing the remains of several former Khmer kings. The main stairway (over 500 steps!) leads you to the newest of the temples which is home to a Buddha relic, and from here the views of the surrounding countryside are breathtaking. As you explore the various stupas you will eventually come to the ruins of the most impressive, the enigmatic temple of Arthaross. This massive temple was badly damaged during the many years of war that Cambodia has suffered and the large Buddha image was finally blown up by the Khmer Rouge in 1977. All that remained of the Buddha was his lap, right torso and shoulder, however the image is now being restored. Oudong makes for a great afternoon trip as watching the sun set from the mountain top is spectacular.

If you would like to get a taste of everyday Cambodian village life yet do not have the time to explore the provinces a half day cruise along the Mekong river to Koh Dach is the perfect introduction. Koh Dach is better known as ‘Silk Weaving Island’ and as you wander around you will notice many of the wooden stilted homes have at least one loom underneath with family members weaving away. It is said that you can calculate the number of daughters in a family by the number of looms underneath the house! The red dirt road that winds around the island passes through traditional Khmer villages, small farms, interesting pagodas, bucolic scenes of rural life, and offers delightful views of the river. Koh Dach truly is a charming ‘oasis’ away from the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh, and as much of the silk on sale in Phnom Penh comes from these weavers you may also be able to pick up a bargain! Not to be missed…

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre is only a short drive from Phnom Penh and is home to many endangered species rescued from illegal animal traders and makes for a great day out for all the family. The centre has over 1,200 animals and exotic birds, and several of the species are on the critically endangered list, such as the Siamese crocodile, tiger, greater adjutant stork and eld’s deer, and many more which are endangered such as the sun bear, wild boar, and the world’s tallest flighted bird the Sarus Crane. The centre is set in a huge expanse of forest which allows the animals to be kept in well-designed, spacious and natural enclosures, made from natural materials, thus allowing the animals, such as the elephants, to go grazing in their natural environment. The centre also allows visitors to feed certain animals such as the macaques and gibbons, with natural foods like sugar cane, fruit and peanuts. A trip to Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre can be easily combined with a visit to Phnom Chisor and Tonle Bati for a fascinating and varied days excursion from Phnom Penh.